ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. — As summer gives way to fall, New Mexico enters one of its most beloved traditions: chile roasting season. With the air thick with the irresistible scent of fire-roasted chile, communities across the state are drawn together by a practice that’s as much cultural as it is culinary.
“This smell is like nothing else — you can be 40 feet away and still feel its pull,” said Mago Chairez of Mago’s Farm in Hatch. “Even people who’ve never tasted it are drawn in. It’s hypnotic.”
In fact, the scent is so iconic it’s been officially recognized as New Mexico’s state aroma — a title that reflects the deep cultural roots of chile in the region. Whether it’s green or red, chile is more than a staple ingredient; it’s a symbol of home, heritage, and resilience.
For more than three decades, Chairez has grown chile in Hatch, the town known as the chile capital of the world. Farming here is labor-intensive, with much of the work still done by hand. And in recent years, it’s gotten more challenging.
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Climate change has made water less reliable. Farmers once depended on the Rio Grande to irrigate their crops, but as river levels continue to drop, many are turning to alternative sources. “These days, most folks in Hatch are pulling water from wells,” Chairez explained.
To adapt, Mago’s Farm has invested in new infrastructure. They’ve added wells and implemented drip irrigation systems that conserve up to 70% of their water — a crucial step to ensure the survival of the harvest.
Another unexpected impact of climate change: chile plants are ripening faster. “We used to start harvesting in August, but now we’re seeing ripe chiles as early as the beginning of July,” Chairez said.
Despite the changes, chile lovers can rest assured. The season will stretch into early November, giving everyone plenty of time to enjoy the flavors and traditions of New Mexico’s most iconic crop.
“This is the only place you’ll get this,” said Chairez. “The smell, the taste — it’s something you have to experience for yourself.”
